‘A DARK SECRET’ THAT EVERYONE NEEDS TO KNOW

Written by, Grace Wilson

Images by, Barton Hu

In hot and heaving Hackney last Sunday, amidst a confluence of culture and creativity, many young and inspired pioneers in the fashion world gathered for the much-anticipated “A Dark Secret” 24 RTW show. The evening was a showcase of artistry, marked by the showcasing of an extraordinary talent, Alexandre Hanzhang Wang. Wang, previously described as a ‘young prodigy’ by the Chinese Daily is one to watch as he emerges as a young designer in the tumultuous and ever-changing industry. Alex is from Shenzhen, China, and has cleverly illuminated the runway with a collection that harmoniously fused Eastern heritage, Western modernity, punk attitude and nods to Medieval English past, cleverly creating a narrative that was as intellectually stimulating as it was visually stunning.

As the once simple venue transformed from concrete and echoes into a canvas of light and shadow, the atmosphere was electric with anticipation. The minimalist set design, coupled with evocative music – opening with simplistic yet harrowing Chinese opera, setting Alexadre’s heritage and his identity that lies within that at the front and centre of the opening moments - he set the stage for his 2024 collection—a symphony of elegance, colour, and cultural interplay. Each model, draped in Wang’s visionary creations, moved with a grace and individualism that spoke of craftsmanship and profound conceptual depth.

The collection was a masterful juxtaposition of traditional Chinese motifs and contemporary Western aesthetics. Exquisite silk robes and tailored tartan suits were decorated with intricate hand-embroidered designs reminiscent of ancient Chinese attire, and were further paired with avant-garde accessories such as stunning red lace tights and large silver collars that added a rebellious edge. A particularly striking ensemble featured a tailored red tartan blazer and flared suit trousers that waltzed down the runway as if second skin to the model, embodying Wang’s distinctive blend of industrial design and sartorial fluidity.

In an exclusive conversation with EDREA magazine, Wang offered a glimpse into the genesis of his creative vision. Here’s an excerpt from our in-depth interview:

1. Tell me about yourself and how your identity has influenced your collection.

• Wang: "I was born in China, moved to Montreal after grade four, and then returned to China for middle school. This multicultural background has been a profound influence on my work. During high school, I began selling customized t-shirts, which marked the start of my journey into fashion. Although I initially pursued industrial design, I soon realised my passion lay in fashion. This background has made my collections more wearable and functional, while still being aesthetically pleasing. My multicultural upbringing has led me to appreciate the traditional cores of various cultures, which I incorporate into my designs."

2. Describe this collection in 3-5 words.

• Wang: "Elegance, Colour, Clash, Brokenness, Bonding."

3. Where/who do you draw inspiration from?

• Wang: "My inspiration comes from the social topic of marriage, particularly the contrast between traditional views and modern, fast-paced life. Traditional expectations often lead to early marriages with high rates of divorce and infidelity. In contrast, modern society prioritises individualism, resulting in a declining birth rate and an aging population. These contrasting views create an intriguing dynamic that I wanted to explore in my collection."

4. How do you feel now that the show is over? What are your next steps moving forward?

• Wang: "After the runway show, I felt a mix of relief and anxiety, mainly due to sales and stylist requests for borrowing clothes. However, I am already contemplating the theme for next season and looking forward to new inspirations."

5. Do you find yourself under pressure from commercial expectations in the industry? How do you express creativity in a commercial world?

• Wang: "Yes, there is definitely pressure because the fashion industry is highly competitive and saturated. Many designers create exaggerated looks to gain fame, but that is not my approach. My focus is on wearability and functionality, aiming to balance creativity with commercial viability."

The reception to Wang's debut was overwhelmingly positive, with the audience enraptured by the intellectual and aesthetic prowess on display. Associate lecturers and tutors sat amidst Wang’s peers at the London College of Fashion and left the audience afterwords conversing about his work, underscoring the young designer’s ability to convey complex ideas through his work; ideas that really get people talking.

As the show drew to a close, it was evident that Wang had not only arrived as someone fresh in the industry, but had also set a new standard in the fashion realm for designers of his generation. His collection was a testament to the power of cultural fusion and intellectual exploration in fashion. Post-show and reflecting on his journey, Wang acknowledged the pressures of the industry but remained steadfast in his commitment to creating wearable, functional art.

Wang's endearing humility and unwavering dedication were palpable, leaving an indelible mark on all who witnessed his debut. As he looks toward the future, there is no doubt that Wang is poised to continue pushing the boundaries of fashion, merging artistry with functionality in a way that is both revolutionary and timeless.

For those seeking a glimpse into the future of fashion, Wang’s work at this year’s SS show was a resounding affirmation of his visionary talent and outstanding potential. This debut not only heralded the arrival of a new creative force but also underscored the transformative power of fashion as a me